Tuesdays With Dorie: Irresistible Banana Cream Pie

Dorie Greenspan’s Banana Cream Pie: A Sophisticated Twist on a Classic Dessert

There are certain desserts that evoke a sense of nostalgia, comfort, and pure delight. For many, a classic banana cream pie sits high on that list. Its creamy texture, sweet banana slices, and delightful topping have graced countless family gatherings and special occasions. So, when the opportunity arose to tackle a banana cream pie recipe from the celebrated cookbook author Dorie Greenspan, specifically from her renowned book Baking: From My Home To Yours, I was brimming with excitement. My parents, avid fans of this iconic dessert, were certainly looking forward to it. However, I quickly discovered that this wasn’t going to be your typical, straightforward banana pudding and meringue pie. Dorie, ever the culinary innovator, presented a version featuring a luscious pastry cream filling crowned with elegant whipped cream, promising a more refined and perhaps even more memorable experience.

The Pie Crust Dilemma: Homemade vs. Store-Bought

One of the initial decisions when embarking on any pie-making adventure is whether to craft the crust from scratch or opt for a convenient pre-made alternative. While there’s undeniable satisfaction in rolling out a perfectly flaky, buttery homemade pie crust, sometimes life simply dictates a different path. On the particular weekend I prepared this Dorie Greenspan masterpiece, my schedule was incredibly packed. I was utterly exhausted, barely managing to assemble the pie before rushing off for the evening. In such moments, the convenience of a good quality store-bought crust is an absolute lifesaver.

My decision to use a pre-made crust wasn’t just about saving time or energy, though. I’ll admit, I often struggle with pie crusts. More often than not, despite my best efforts, I end up with a tough, unyielding crust that detracts from the overall enjoyment of the pie. And, honestly, I don’t particularly enjoy eating pie crust unless it’s exceptionally well-made. A bad crust can ruin even the most exquisite filling. This time, I wanted to ensure that the star of the show – Dorie’s unique banana pastry cream – received the stage it deserved, unhindered by my crust-making limitations. While a perfectly executed homemade pâte brisée or even a graham cracker crust can elevate a banana cream pie, knowing my personal track record, I opted for a reliable foundation that wouldn’t overshadow the intricate flavors of the filling.

For those who do venture into homemade crusts, here are a few tips for achieving that coveted flaky texture:

  • Keep Ingredients Cold: Cold butter and ice water are crucial to prevent gluten development and create steam pockets for flakiness.
  • Don’t Overwork the Dough: Mix just until combined. Overworking develops gluten, leading to a tough crust.
  • Chill Thoroughly: Chilling the dough before rolling and again before baking helps the butter solidify and the gluten relax.
  • Blind Bake (if required): For custard or cream pies, blind baking prevents a soggy bottom crust.

Freshly grated nutmeg for banana cream pie

The Aromatic Power of Fresh Nutmeg

This particular baking project introduced me to a culinary revelation: fresh nutmeg. Thanks to the wonderful team at Marx Foods, who graciously sent me samples of six intriguing spices a few weeks prior, I had the opportunity to experience the difference firsthand. Marx Foods is truly an awesome company, dedicated to sourcing and providing high-quality ingredients, and their generosity allowed me to elevate this pie in an unexpected way.

Grating fresh nutmeg was an incredibly aromatic experience. The scent was vibrant, warm, and intensely fragrant, immediately distinguishing itself from its pre-ground counterpart. And the taste? Oh, the taste! It’s profoundly powerful and incomparably superior. The depth of flavor it imparted to the banana cream pie was simply incredible, adding a warm, complex, and subtly spicy note that beautifully complemented the sweet bananas and creamy custard. It truly highlighted why fresh spices are often recommended in high-quality recipes.

From now on, I am definitely going to make it a point to use fresh nutmeg whenever possible. The difference is night and day. It transforms a dish from good to exceptional. This experience has also fueled my curiosity about the other exotic spices Marx Foods sent. I’m still on the hunt for compelling recipes that incorporate grains of paradise, tellicherry peppercorns, or Szechuan peppercorns. If you have any suggestions, please share them – I’m eager to experiment!

The lesson here extends beyond nutmeg: using fresh, high-quality spices can genuinely elevate your baking and cooking. The volatile oils responsible for flavor and aroma dissipate over time in ground spices, so investing in whole spices and grinding them fresh is a small effort with a huge payoff.

Pastry cream being spread over bananas

Deciphering Dorie’s Pastry Cream: A Culinary Conundrum

Moving back to the star of the show, the pie itself, the pastry cream was perhaps the most intriguing and somewhat perplexing component of Dorie Greenspan’s recipe. When I think of classic banana cream pie, or even other desserts featuring pastry cream like éclairs, I envision a perfectly smooth, silky, almost pourable consistency. Especially given that traditional banana cream pies often feature a very fluid, smooth pudding layer, my expectations were set for something similar.

However, what I achieved was quite different. The pastry cream, while undeniably smooth in texture, was surprisingly thick and what I can only describe as “kinda gloopy.” This immediately made me wonder if I had overcooked it, pushing it past its ideal thickening point. Despite its unconventional consistency, it spread remarkably easily over the sliced bananas in the pie crust. This ease of spreading, combined with its eventual set, led me to believe that perhaps this unique texture was intentional for this specific recipe, or at least, I hadn’t made a catastrophic error.

The flavor profile was another pleasant surprise. Thanks to the generous addition of fresh nutmeg and a hint of cinnamon, the pastry cream had an unexpected warmth that reminded me distinctly of pumpkin pie. This wasn’t a bad thing at all; in fact, it added a sophisticated layer of flavor that set this banana cream pie apart from its more straightforward counterparts. It provided a cozy, autumnal essence that made each bite more complex and inviting.

One challenge I faced was time. As I was running short, the pastry cream only chilled in the refrigerator for about an hour before assembly. It was still pretty warm when I started layering. However, to my relief, this didn’t seem to make a significant difference in the final product. The assembled pie then chilled in the fridge overnight, allowing all the components to meld together beautifully and for the pastry cream to firm up completely. This lengthy chill proved crucial, ensuring a perfectly set pie slice with distinct layers of crust, bananas, and creamy filling.

Banana Cream Pie with whipped cream topping

Whipped Cream vs. Meringue: The Topping Debate

The final element of Dorie Greenspan’s banana cream pie was its topping: a generous layer of freshly whipped cream. This choice immediately set it apart from many classic banana cream pies, which often feature a lofty, toasted meringue. While the whipped cream was undeniably good – light, airy, and a delightful contrast to the rich pastry cream – I must confess a personal preference for the traditional meringue.

There’s something about the delicate crispness of a torched meringue, its subtle sweetness, and its ability to act as a protective blanket for the creamy filling that I find particularly appealing. Moreover, meringue provides a practical solution for using up the significant number of egg whites left over from making a rich, egg yolk-heavy pastry cream. This recipe, for instance, leaves you with a substantial six egg whites. While I was able to utilize some of them in a batch of cupcakes, having a dedicated use within the pie itself feels more cohesive.

However, Dorie’s choice of whipped cream certainly offers a different kind of elegance. It’s less sweet than meringue, allowing the banana and spice flavors to shine through more prominently. Its smooth, silken texture complements the pastry cream beautifully, creating a harmonious mouthfeel. It also offers a quicker, no-bake topping solution for those who might be intimidated by meringue-making.

Ideas for Leftover Egg Whites:

  • Meringue Cookies: Simple, crisp, and delightful.
  • Pavlova: A dramatic dessert with a crisp shell and soft interior.
  • Angel Food Cake: A classic cake that relies heavily on egg whites.
  • Frittatas or Omelets: Incorporate them into a savory breakfast or brunch.
  • Cocktails: Egg whites are used to create a frothy top for many classic cocktails.

The Verdict: A Pie Vanished Too Soon

Despite my initial queries about the pastry cream’s texture and my personal leaning towards meringue, this Dorie Greenspan Banana Cream Pie was an undeniable success. Its unique flavor profile, enhanced by the fresh nutmeg and cinnamon, offered a sophisticated departure from the familiar. The combination of the sweet bananas, the spiced, thick pastry cream, and the light whipped cream created a harmonious and utterly delicious dessert.

The true testament to its deliciousness was how quickly it disappeared. Between four eager individuals, the entire pie lasted a mere two days – a clear indication that it was thoroughly enjoyed by all. Even with a pre-made crust and my slight deviation in chilling time, the pie delivered on its promise of rich flavor and creamy indulgence.

If you’re looking to elevate your banana cream pie game, or simply want to explore Dorie Greenspan’s brilliant approach to classic desserts, I highly recommend giving this recipe a try. You can find the detailed instructions for this delightful banana cream pie on pages 342-343 of Baking: From My Home To Yours. It’s a journey worth taking, offering a fresh perspective on a beloved classic and showcasing the power of quality ingredients and thoughtful preparation.